The
Alhambra Palace is only 50 minutes drive inland towards Granada
from the coast and is a very popular and worthwhile destination
for everyone who visits the area.
Once you get near the outskirts of Granada you will see signs
leading you there. Although you can buy your tickets at the gate,
it is highly recommended in high season to get your tickets from
a BBVA bank either in Motril or Salobrena. You will then know
the times that you can go in to the main palace or harem. You
need to present these tickets given to you by the BBVA at the
main gates at the Alhambra when you arrive. It is quite hard walking
around the Alhambra, and it gets hot - so wear comfortable flat
shoes, take some water with you and a hat. There are a couple
of snack bars in the grounds where you can stop for a refreshing
cold drink. It takes about four or five hours to go around the
Alhambra properly, but it is an amazing place.
Telephone
bookings: 91 346 59 36 - please add international dialling code
Internet bookings: http://www.alhambratickets.com/
Almunecar
Almuñecar is considered to be one of the oldest towns of the
Western world dating back some 3,000 years. According to legend,
it was once known as EX, while the Phoenicians named it Sexi.
Today the town has become an important tourist centre offering
hotels and a good range of services.
There
is a popular outdoor market on Friday mornings which you cannot
miss as it is on the main road through town - and on the first
Saturday of the month there is always a ´boot sale´.
The beach area is nice for strolling or watching the world go
by. For those with children, there is a water park (high season
only) at one end of the beach where you could spend a full day.
Try to locate the town hall and the church - there is a nice square
and lots of little shops.
Alpujarras
Las
Alpujarras are a very special and beautiful region of Spain, where
the interrelationship of geography, ecology and history of human
settlement is unique. They make a wonderful and memorable area
for walking, cycling, mountain trekking or horse riding.
This
region, once very inaccessible, is now easily approached by car
and most of the holiday properties on this website are within
one hour’s journey away.
In
Granada province Las Alpujarras consist of a system of deep and
majestic river valleys south of the usually snow capped Sierra
Nevada mountains (the highest in Europe after the Alps) and separated
from the coast by the lower sierras of Lujar, Contraviesa and
Gador. The principal valley runs some 50km east-west, containing
the Rio Cadiar, flowing westward into the Rio Guadalfeo, which
finally reaches the Mediterranean between Motril and Salobrena.
The high Poqueira and Trevelez tributaries have cut spectacular
ravines into the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada. The region
also spreads eastward into Almeria province, where the landscape
becomes more open and arid, eventually merging with the desert
north of Almeria city.
The
upper Alpujarra of Granada province are well watered year round
from the Sierra Nevada, and over the centuries this has allowed
a rich and varied agriculture to develop. Typically at 1200 metres
above sea level, chestnut and walnut woodland, terraced hillsides
of almond, cherry, olive, orange, lemon and vine stand in contrast
to the more arid landscapes of lower altitudes.
While
there is evidence of human settlement going back at least 2000
years to the Visigoths, it is the Berbers and Moors from about
the 11th century onward that made this area unique in Europe in
its pattern of settlement. Berbers first populated the area as
refugees from Seville, followed by the Moors in the 15th century
fleeing the Christian re-invasion of Granada. This was the last
enclave of the Moors in Spain before they were totally banished
in the 16th century, when Philip II forcibly populated the Alpujarra
with Spanish from Galicia and Asturias. Even then, two Muslim
families from each village had to remain, since only they had
the knowledge of how to operate the intricate irrigation system,
built over generations, of channels or acequias, that carried
the rainwater and melted snow from the mountains to the valley
farms. The area at that time must have seemed like a green oasis
of rich agriculture in strong contrast to the barren surroundings.
Numerous villages prospered in the production of exclusive silk
for selling in Almeria, and some of the mulberry fields on which
the silkworms were kept are to be seen to this day. The irrigation
system was an amazing feat of engineering for its time, some 800
kms remain today with much still in use.
After
the final eviction of the Moors right until the end of Franco’s
era in the 1970’s the area fell into deep economic decline.
Gerald Brenan, a World War I veteran and fringe member of the
Bloomsbury Group, came to live here in the 1920’s at Yegen,
and his book ‘South from Granada’ describes a way
of life little changed from mediaeval times. Even in the early
‘80s, this was the poorest area in all Spain, living standards
being comparable with third world levels.
In
recent times, the area has improved economically, partly due to
an inflow of English and other north Europeans settling here to
make a slightly ‘alternative’ way of life in the sun.
Best known perhaps is Chris Stewart, who in his best selling books
‘Driving over Lemons’ and ‘A Parrot in a Pepper
Tree’ describes the life of his family and Spanish neighbours
in re-building a farm not far from Orgiva.
Of
the original four hundred or so, some seventy Berber and Moorish
villages remain in the region. Their architectural style is to
be found nowhere else in Spain, being almost identical to those
in the Rif and Atlas Mountains of Morocco. Thick stone walled,
and generally low flat roofed, finished in launa (a compressed
mud made from the local clay) and with characteristic circular
chimneys, the style is a clear response to the geography and climate.
Another unusual feature are the tinaos, upper level bridges that
link one house to another. Originally in bare stone, most are
now whitewashed, which makes the villages look less dour than
some of their Moroccan counterparts.
Principal
access to the area by road is via either Lanjaron or Velez Benaudalla
(near the massive new Rules dam), off the main road between Motril
and Granada city. A more adventurous route is from the coast near
La Mamola up a magnificent, twisting mountain road high above
the sea, signposted to Polopos. Winding up through terraced hillsides
cultivated in almond and vine (from which Costa wine is made),
in late afternoon it is sometimes possible to see the mountains
of North Africa silhouetted in the sinking sun. The road continues
up and over the Sierra de la Contraviesa and down into the main
Alpujarra valley linking Orgiva to Cadiar.
The
more visited towns and villages are the health spa of Lanjaron
in the west, Orgiva the main market town, (Thursdays), then the
high villages of Pampaneira, Bubion, and Capileira in the Poqueira
gorge and Trevelez in the high valley of its namesake. These are
now somewhat on the tourist trail, but still remain very attractive
and peaceful. Perhaps the prettiest is Pampaneira, centred on
its small church square, where one can relax at one of the alfresco
restaurants, sampling the traditional cuisine such as ‘Plato
Alpujarreno’ (ham eggs black pudding), choto in almond sauce,
trout or patates povres. Trevelez is most famous for its production
of air-cured mountain ham – Jamon Serrano, easily the equal
of the best Prosciutto de Parma! This village claims to be the
highest permanent settlement in Spain at 1476m, but only true
because the boundary includes Mulhacen, the highest mountain in
Spain.
The
climate is cooler than down on the coast – the higher villages
often get snow in winter, but the valleys can be hot in high summer.
This is a region perhaps best experienced on foot, many hiking
trails start from Pampaneira. There is also a National Park Information
Centre here. The more strenuous routes are up into the Sierra
Nevada mountain national park. Here there are varieties of flora
and fauna to be found nowhere else in Europe with over fifty species
of wild flower including rare varieties of blue gentians. Rare
butterflies, wild goat, wild boar, hoopoe, golden eagle, buzzard,
raven, bunting and warblers make this a very special area for
wildlife spotting. Probably the best time of year for walking
is late spring and early summer when many wild flowers are in
bloom. Early autumn is also good, but high summer can be exhausting.
Skiing in winter is possible from Capileira.
A
less strenuous but still rewarding area to walk is in and around
the Taja villages below Pampaneira. Scarcely visited, these hamlets
have a far more authentic Berber appearance, although probably
some too are now being discreetly restored by foreign residents.
Walking trails on old cobbled mule paths by woodland streams and
springs, across terraced hillsides of almond, cherry, mulberry
or open cornfields connect the villages of Pitres, Mecinilla,
Ferreirola, and Atelbeitar. Walking here offers peace and tranquillity
in a sublime landscape that is simply a world away from the 21st
century life on the Costas.
Acknowledgements
and further references:
‘South from Granada’ by Gerald Brenan
‘Driving over Lemons’ and ‘A Parrot in a Pepper
Tree’ by Chris Stewart
‘Sierra Nevada, la Alpujarra’ - Alpina Map and Tourist
Guide
‘Alpujarras’ – A Discovery Walking Guide
‘Andalucia’ – The Rough Guide
All
available from http://www.amazon.co.uk/
Banking
Bank Opening Times
Monday - Friday 8.30 am - 2 pm
Saturdays 8.30 am - 1.30 pm (only October - March)
Many bank personnel will not speak English.
Banco Atlantico personnel in Motril all speak English.
Currency Exchange
Money can be exchanged at all banks.
Travellers
Cheques
Banks really do not like to change these and you will have
great difficulty in finding a bank that will accept them! We recommend
you use credit cards at the bank machines.
Credit Cards
There are many bank machines situated outside banks
that will accept most types of credit cards if you wish
to withdraw cash.
If you are using credit cards to pay for goods or services then
please ensure you have your passport with you as you will be asked
for identification. The Spanish will always show their identity
card when paying by credit card.
Buses
Local
Local bus services are very cheap and are widely used. There are
plenty of bus stops in the towns on the Costa Tropical and most
have timetables shown.
National
The national bus service in Spain is called Alsina Graells
http://www.alsinagraells.es/
If
you are flying into Malaga airport it is possible to get a shuttle
bus from the airport to the Alsina Graells bus terminal in Malaga.
Alternatively, the distance between the two is not far and a taxi
is quite inexpensive. Please ensure you ask for the Alsina Graells
bus terminal otherwise you may end up at the local bus terminal.
No English is spoken at the terminal so having a few words and
a dictionary to hand will be useful when buying your tickets!
The cost of an adult ticket from Malaga to Motril is approx €7.
All buses are airconditioned and of a good standard.
Camping
Camping
Don Cactus
Beachside location, Bar/Restaurant, Disco, Shop , Swimming Pool,
Tennis, Jacuzzi, Archery
Its
location makes it perfect for practising a wide range of sports,
such as underwater diving, underwater fishing, surface fishing,
windsurfing, surfing, sailing, hill walking, potholing, paragliding,
climbing and much more…
Carchuna-Motril,
E18730 Granada
Spain
http://www.doncactus.com/
Diving (PADI)
Club
Nautique
Marina del Este
18690 Almunecar
Tel/Fax: 958 82 75 14 - please add international dialling code
http://www.clubnautique.com
Location: From Málaga you drive east on the N340 towards Almeria.
Approx 20 kms past Nerja and just past the town of La Herradura
you will see a sign to the right for Marina del Este.
Open all year
0900 to 20.00 in summer
1000 to 1800 in winter
Dive trips daily
Courses: PADI, Discover scuba, open water, advanced open water,
medic first aid, rescue diver, divemaster and assistant instructor
Speciality: Nitrox, underwater photography, search and rescue,
wreck diving, underwater navigation, night dives.
Dive shop
Equipment Hire
Buceo La Herradura
Marina del Este
18690 Almunecar
Tel/Fax: 958 82 70 83 - please add international dialling code
http://www.buceolaherradura.com
Location: From Málaga you drive east on the N340 towards Almeria.
Approx 20 kms past Nerja and just past the town of La Herradura
you will see a sign to the right for Marina del Este.
Daily dive trips
Diving courses for all levels during the whole year
Diving equipment sales and rentals
A diving team with many years of experience
Flamenco
FLAMENCO
ROOTS
If
one were asked “What is the essential spirit of Spain?”,
probably most would readily answer “Flamenco” or perhaps
“Bullfighting’. Indeed the Granada-born poet and writer,
Garcia Lorca, claimed that Flamenco is deeply related to bullfighting,
not only sharing root emotions and passions, flashes of erratic
genius, but because both are possible ways to break out of social
and economic marginality.”
In
fact, Flamenco belongs to the south of Spain, to Andalucia, and
while its history is obscure and disputed, its origins were contemporary
with the Moorish era. Its sources were probably related to the
waves of immigrants in this period: from Morocco, Egypt, Greece,
and the Middle East. Jews in the Spanish Netherlands may well
have had an influence; indeed one (unlikely) theory is that the
word flamenco is synonymous with Flanders. In the 15th century,
with the re-Christianisation of Spain, the Catholic Church marginalized
many of these immigrant communities, and the arrival of gypsies
(gitanos) from India at about the same time perhaps became a focus
for these deprived sections of society. However, arguably, there
is no such thing as ‘gypsy music’, there is ‘gypsy
musicality’ – where ever they end up and settle, they
take the local music and make their own versions of it.
In
the following centuries it fused with elements of Arab and Jewish
music in the Andalucia mountains where those sections of society
took refuge to escape forced religious conversions. Today it is
often thought to be a gypsy art, but there are in fact two strains:
gitano and payo (non-gypsy). What is apparent, is that the roots
of its expression are essentially without religion, or more specifically
non-Catholic, and in a culture of deprivation - ‘life must
be lived for the day, with a passionate need to preserve self-esteem’
and ‘without a God, death must be faced with intense courage,
pride, dignity and humour’. This attitude to life and death
must have engendered an intense feeling of community, and the
developing flamenco music its deepest expression.
It
is ironic, therefore that its characteristics may well have been
most heavily influenced by the early Church in Spain with its
adoption of Byzantine ecclesiastical music. The Spanish classical
composer, Manuel de Falla, argued in his writings on “Cante
Jondo” that this was the decisive historic event in flamenco’s
development. It is suggested that this influence led to the general
use of the ‘Phrygian Mode’ in flamenco. (simply put,
this is the scale based on the musical note ‘E’ rather
than the typical western scales, Major – based on C and
Minor – based on A, and that gives it its characteristic
oriental, plaintive melancholy sound). Spanish Classical music
has also been strongly influenced by Flamenco - in works by composers
such as de Falla, Albeniz, Rodrigo, Tarrega and Granados, the
connection is clear.
Earliest
Flamenco seems to have been purely vocal (Cante), accompanied
only by rhythmical hand clapping (Toque de Palmas). Only during
its ‘golden age’ in the 19th century was the guitar
introduced, and its full expression in Cante the song, Baile the
dance, and Guitarra or Toque the guitar accompaniment came about.
At this time, the main centres were the Barrio Triana in Seville,
Moron de la Frontera, Cadiz, and Jerez and later in Granada. Performances
usually took place in ‘Peñas’ or ‘Café
Cantantes’.
Castanets or Palillos were traditionally used with the regional
dances, in particular Sevillanas, Fandangos de Huelva, and Tanguillo
de Cadiz, and came into more general use in the mid-20th century,
when perhaps a less ‘earthy’ and more ‘sanitised,
kitsch and politically acceptable’ form of the music was
fostered in Franco’s era. Their use is frowned on today
in the more serious dances, since they detract from the use of
the hands; they are used primarily if no singer is available to
interpret the Cante.
ELEMENTS
OF FLAMENCO
The
Guitar (Guitarra or Toque)
The basic element of rhythm in Flamenco is called the ‘Compas’
– a recurring pattern of accented beats that gives it a
regular pulse, repeated again and again like a heartbeat and it
is the guitarist who strictly maintains this in a performance.
It is the deepest understanding of the Compas, and the physical
identification with the rhythm that brings the performance to
life. The different forms are called Toques – Soleares,
Seguiriyas, Tientos, Fandangos and so on. Some are folk influenced
e.g. Sevillanas, Peteneras; others are regionally based e.g. Malagueñas,
Granadinas. Some of the names describe the mood e.g. ‘Soleares’
– ‘solitude or loneliness’ or ‘Alegrias’
– ‘joy or gaiety’. These are not single musical
pieces, but are forms on which the guitarist and singer improvise.
The guitarist accompanies the singer in a close understanding
of the mood and at various times extemporizes ‘falsetas’
or short variations.
The two guitar techniques that all will recognise as flamenco
are the ‘rasgueado’, or long backward strike with
all fingers across all the strings and ‘tremolo’ which
is the rapid plucking of a single string by each finger in succession.
Virtuosos can reach extraordinary speeds of tremolo – at
least fifteen notes per second.
While the guitar seems to have come late to flamenco, and then
at first only as accompaniment, it is now recognised as a powerful
solo instrumental form in its own right. Early solo performers
were Ramon Montoya, Andrés Segovia initially in Granada
(but who later became more famous for classical guitar) and Niño
Ricardo. Currently the best-known players internationally are
Paco Peña, Paco de Lucia and Juan Martin.
The
Song (Cante)
Urged into mood by ‘jaleo’, or palmas hand clapping,
and often with a harsh sounding voice, flamenco singers express
great emotion, pain and melancholy. Together with facial expressions
of anger and desperation and expressive body movements, the singer
occasionally achieves ‘duende’ - a total emotional
connection with their audience, which even when expressing happiness
can create a profound effect. One of the greats of the century,
accompanied by Montoya, was Antonio Chacon, and in more recent
times, the distinctive cracking voiced, intense El Camaron de
la Isla.
The
Dance (Baile)
As opposed to the popular ‘Sevillanas’ folk dancing,
real flamenco dancing can express all the high emotion that the
singer or guitarist can evoke. Through interaction with the guitarist,
the dancer improvises with huge physical and emotional control
and extraordinary footwork expressed in heel to toe movements.
Traditionally, women dress in the characteristic red polka-dot
Sevillana dresses, while male dancers wear high waisted black
trousers and waistcoats.
The
Audience
An essential component of the performance is the connection with
and the reaction of the audience. The total emotional connection
and appreciation will be expressed with hand clapping, and calls
such as ‘Olé!’, ‘Eso Es!’ or ‘Asi
se toca!’
Toca bien o toca en el campo!’ is reserved for familiar
surroundings – ‘Play well or play in the fields!’
MODERN
FLAMENCO – NUEVO FLAMENCO
After
a fairly uninspired period under Franco, Flamenco has enjoyed
a resurgence, starting in the late ‘70s with Pace Peña
and perhaps more significantly the ‘payo’, Paco de
Lucia, born in Algeciras. He, less constrained by tradition, has
fused his music with jazz, Latin American and rock. More recent
are groups such as the (French) Gypsy Kings – mixing with
rumba, and Ketama and Radio Tarifa – mixing with North African
and other world roots.
There are numerous other comparatively unknown performers, and
CD recordings that are only available locally are commonplace
in street markets.
WHERE
TO FIND FLAMENCO
Flamenco
is fairly easy to find in Granada. Granada city is the best place
to plan to see it - where it is played frequently, but much in
the Sacramonto, the gitano district, is pretty bad and geared
to tourists. In the Albaicin district below the Alhambra there
are good places to go for aficionados –
El Niño de los Almendras -“unforgettable flamenco
when it happens”
Peña Plateria – “come in small groups and speak
Spanish”
There
are annual flamenco festivals in the bigger cities – information
is available on the Internet. Sometimes you may notice flyposters
for a forthcoming performance almost anywhere in the province,
and some restaurants at coastal resorts in the summer months will
have players. Sometimes it will be performed at village or town
fiestas. But perhaps the most unforgettable way is to come across
it unexpectedly, or by word of mouth, - usually late at night
and into the early hours, played impromptu by unknown performers
at some insignificant bar or cafe – but - when ‘duende’
might just happen.
Further
references and discography:
“El Arte Flamenco de la Guitarra’ – Guitar Method
by Juan Martin
“Flamenco Guitar’ – Paco Peña –
double CD
“An Introduction to Flamenco” – Charles Keyser
“Flamenco” – Jan Fairley and “Andalucia
– The Rough Guide”
Golf
Club
Los Moriscos (18 holes)
Urb. Playa Granada
Motril (Granada)
Tel/Fax: 958 82 55 27 - please add international dialling code
http://www.moriscosgolf.com/
Please
note you now to have ring or visit the golf club to book a tee
off time - 24 hours in advance.
Designed by Ibergolf and Manuel Piñero, this is a fairly flat
course close to the sea. Open since 1974.
Prices 2006/7
Individual - €40
Couple - €70
Under 18 years - €20
Half hour lesson - €20
1 hour lesson - €30
Golf cart hire for 9 holes - €15
Golf cart hire for 18 holes - €20
Trolley hire - €3
Full club set hire - €15
Granada Club de Golf (18 holes)
Avda. Los Cosarios s/n
Las Gabias (Granada)
Tel: 958 58 44 36
Situated just 8 kms from the city centre. It has a length of 6,037
mtrs and a par 72. Open since 1986.
Horse
Riding
Vera Cruz, Los Tablones near Motril
For bookings ring: 619 013 670 - please add international
dialling code
2 hour rides - Euros 27
6 hour ride and lunch - Euros 69
Beginners and children welcome, Lessons by arrangement
English, Spanish and German spoken
Hard hats not supplied
Caballo Blanco Trekking Centre
Lanjaron
For bookings ring: 958 34 71 75 - please add international
dialling code
Explore the breathtaking beauty of the Alpujarras on horseback
2 - 8 hour rides available
Trekking holidays and lessons by arrangement
Centro Ecuestre Tropical
Barranco Caballero s/n
Almuñecar
For bookings ring: 626 819 691 - please add international
dialling code
Rides in the mountains
Rides on the beaches (in winter only)
Day excursions
Classes for beginners to advanced riders
Experience the Andalucian horse in its natural surroundings
Horses are spanish or spanish cross all of whom have very good
characters
Hospitals
Hospital
Santa Ana
Avenida Martin Cuevas, 18600 Motril
Tel: 958 038 200
Hotels
Hotel
Salobreña ***
Ctra. N-340, 18680 Salobrena
Tel: 958 610 261 Fax: 958 610 101
192 rooms, restaurant, bar, swimming pool, tennis, telephone,
satellite TV, solarium
Hotel Salambina *
Ctra. N-340, 18680 Salobrena
Tel: 958 610 037
13 rooms, bar/cafeteria, telephone
Gran Hotel ****
Avda. Play Poniente, Port of Motril
Tel: 958 607 744
200 rooms
Hostal Colonia *
Cerrajón 4, 18600 Motril
Tel: 958 600 784 Fax: 958 608 259
Perla de Andalucía ***
Ctra. de Almería, Carchuna
Tel: 958 624 242
120 rooms
El Ancla **
Avda. de los Geráneos 1, Carchuna
Tel: 958 623 042
60 rooms
Maps
Markets
Almunecar
There is a good market outdoor on Friday mornings which is
on the main road through town - and on the first Saturday of the
month there is always a ´boot sale´.
Motril
The open air market takes place on Tuesday and Friday mornings
and is currently situated behind the Mercadona supermarket.
Orgiva
Located
in the centre of the town and on a Thursday morning.
Motril
Motril
plays a prominent role among the costal towns of the Costa Tropical
and is the economic and trading town of the area. It is a natural
outlet for the products of the Alpujarras region and the Valle
de Lecrin. Protected by the formidable Sierra Nevada mountain
range it is a modern town of approximately 50,000 inhabitants.
The area is constantly going through a process of development
owing to the commercial port and the success of the sub-tropical
fruits grown in the plains which open up to the sea. The town
has seen the passage of the Phoenicians, Romans and Arabs, making
their mark on every part of the town. The area maintains important
agricultural activity including the sugar cane industry.
Take a walk around the attractive streets and squares with their
wide variety of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants or make your
way down to the beachfront where you will find more good restaurants!
Sample the typical culinary specialities - fish in all shapes
and sizes, paella, tropical fruits and of course, the wines! Try
out the tapas bars and The Cresta Run....
Motril is one of the few towns where you can practise every type
of sports thanks to its varied geography. Parascending, climbing,
windsurfing, hang-gliding, horse riding, sailing to name a few.
However, without doubt, golf is one of the key sports in Motril
thanks to the well equipped "Los Moriscos" golf course located
on the beach between Motril and Salobreña. Facilities include
a social club, a beach club and a practise ground. The course
covers approx 200,000 sq mtrs in a beautiful setting with views
to the sea, the sub-tropical plain and the white peaks of the
mountains.
The interior of Motril has recently been pedestrianised
and you can spend a pleasant time just wandering around and looking
at the shops. There are many old churches and nice buildings to
see and a park just near the main church in the centre of town.
Park where you see blue lines and pay at the meter - wardens are
always about and you could be towed away if you don´t have a ticket
displayed on the inside or your car windscreen. €1 gets you approx
2 hours. Watch out for unofficial ´parking attendants´- they will
ask you for money to take care of your car! Until recently they
were accepted by the local authority but now the parking meters
are working you need a ticket.
There is a good ´Mercado Municipal´where you can buy fresh fish,
meat, vegetables, etc., or just to have a look to get the atmosphere.
This is just off the Avenida Salobreña and is a large pink building
set slightly back from the main road.
The open air market takes place on Tuesday and Friday mornings
and is currently situated behind the Mercadona supermarket.
Restaurants and bars abound in Motril, but remember that the shops
close between 2.00 pm and 5.00 pm for siesta. Please look at the
restaurant section for more information.
The
Alcampo supermarket is open all day (except Sundays) from 10.00
- 22.00 but it is normally most foreigners who are there at the
siesta time - the Spanish go home! On Sunday mornings there are
small supermarkets and bread shops open in the centre of Motril.
Useful
telephone numbers (alll numbers are local - please add international
dialling code)
Tourism Office: 958 83 83 78
Fire Department: 958 60 19 20
Local Police: 092
Rec Cross: 958 82 59 60
Traffic Police: 958 60 04 80
Bus Station (Alsina Graells): 958 60 00 64
Taxi: 958 60 18 54
Sailing Club: 958 60 00 37
General Hospital: 958 60 35 06
Parascending and hang-gliding club: 958 82 27 59
Climbing Association: 958 82 26 82
Bike Hire: 958 82 03 03
Golf Club "Los Moriscos": 958 82 55 27
Cinema: 958 82 21 07
Restaurants
and tapas bars
Unlike the rest of Spain, tapas are still free in the province
of Granada. It is great fun trying out the different bars to see
which one gives the best tapas. What are they? Small plates of
food given usually with wine or beer (not normally given with
coffee, soft drinks or spirits). Most bars have their own specialities.
Examples: olives, slices of cheese, serrano ham, spanish omelette
(tortilla), prawns in shells, meatballs with tomato sauce, octopus
and grilled sardines.
Motril - El Mondero Pub ****
Friendly owners/managers, a well stocked bar offering beers,
spirits and cocktails (Guinness on tap). The tapas are very good
and filling. Airconditioning, dartboard, children welcome, good
music (Friday and Saturday nights the atmosphere is great and
the dancing goes on ´til late!). Open 7 days a week:
Monday - Friday 8pm - 2 am
Saturday - Sunday 4 pm - 1 am
As you enter Motril from the direction of Alcampo supermarket,
you will see on your right the Multicine (cinema). The El Mondero
Pub is located in a street directly behind the cinema and can
be accessed by walking through the cinema complex.
La
Cabria Beach - Casa Antonio ****
If you fancy the ´Shirley Valentine´scene - try Casa Antonio
restaurant at La Cabria. It is on the beach and the food is excellent
(try the berenjenas con nata - as a starter (aubergines in cream).
To get to La Cabria you need to take the N340 road. Approaching
from Salobreña you will see a sign for La Cabria - you will take
a slip road to your right off the N340 and will then cross over
the N340. Approaching from Almuñecar you will need to turn right.
Just follow the road all the way down and you will find the restaurant
along to the left. The road is really rough but it is well worth
the effort! Spanish speaking staff but the menu in several different
languages. Holidays and weekends it gets very and you must reserve
a table.
Playa de Cabria - Tel: 958 63 30 07
Motril - The Cresta Run *****
Great fun! We have taken many people on ´the run´and all have
said that they think it scores top marks! Not actually a restaurant
but a series of tapas bars and, as the name implies, as the evening
goes on it gets a little more dangerous - depending on how many
bars you wish to try out! Only for those with a strong constitution!
The ambience over the summer months is terrific in this mainly
Spanish quarter of Motril and most of the bars have streetside
seating so you can get a good feel of the nightlife! These bars
are all open over the winter months but being able to sit outside
makes quite a difference. We shall shortly be adding a map and
list of all the bars.
Motril - Zarcillo ***
On the Esplanadas in the centre of Motril overlooking the
main church. The Esplanadas is a lovely promenade with many different
types of palms lining it. Sit inside or out. Do visit the toilets
while you are there - well worth a look! Food is more European
- not a large menu but they do have a dish which will suit strict
vegetarians and has been OK´d by one! Would have got 4 stars had
it not been for the fact that you will wait a very long time for
your meal having ordered it! - but good when it arrives.
Motril - Asador el "Quebracho" ****
Argentinian restaurant. The owners/managers are English
speaking although the menu is in Spanish. Enjoy a steak that is
so large it falls off your plate or ribs cooked over an open fire.
House wines are well priced and well selected. Well worth a visit.
Locate the fountain and church in the centre of Motril and it
is a 2 minute walk. Calle Pablo Picasso Nº 5 or Telephone
958 82 00 75.
Port
of Motril - Brisa del Mar ****
The best way to tell you how to get to this very good restaurant
is by exiting Motril past the main church in the centre of town
following signs for the Puerta (Port). Approx 1.5 kms down this
road you come to a sharp bend in the road - follow the road round
to the right. The Brisa del Mar restaurant is the first restaurant
you come to on your right - it has a bright red awning outside.
If you get to the roundabout you have missed it! They serve the
best fish tapas in the area. One tip - if you stay at the bar
you get more tapas - they often forget to bring them to you when
you sit outside as they are usually very busy. The restaurant
also gets very busy, especially at weekends, so get there early
if you don´t want to wait for a table. Spanish speaking staff
and spanish menu. If you like grilled fish then try the ´Parrillada´-
if there are 2 of you order for one person, and if 4 order for
2, etc! A really superb choice of fish arrives in front of you
- we can´t recommend it highly enough! House wines are very reasonable
in quality and price. Closed on Tuesdays.
Port
of Motril - Marquesina Puerto ***
Follow directions out of Motril as for the Brisa del Mar restaurant
above. Go past the Brisa del Mar and go straight across the roundabout.
The road goes round to the right - follow this. You will go over
a small bridge and will see the beach of Motril on your left in
between the apartments. You will find the restaurant shortly after
the bridge on your right. If you go past the Gran Hotel then you
have gone too far! A good place to visit at lunchtime or in the
evening. The evening tends to be livelier in the bar whereas as
lunchtime the restaurant is quite full. The restaurant is good
but a little bit more expensive than others in the area. The tapas
bar is very good - the food gets better and better with each drink
served! Stay for a while and enjoy.
Salobrena - El Peñon *** and La Baha **
There are two main roads which take you down to the beachfront
from the entrance of the town. At the beach you need to turn right.
You will see the El Peñon restaurant to your left built into the
rocks and La Baha to your right on the beach. El Peñon is slightly
more expensive but both are good. Great beachside locations for
lunch or dinner with views across the coast and to the mountains.
Spanish speaking staff but menus in several languages.
Salobrena Beach ***
There are many other restaurants along the beach in Saloreña
- put your feet into the sand and sample the many different specialities
on offer!
Salobrena - La Bodega ***
There are two entrances into Salobreña. Approaching from the
east along the N340 coast road you need to take the first entrance
and from the west the second entrance. You come immediately to
a roundabout and La Bodega is on the roundabout to the right.
The fish (especially the fish of the day which you will see prior
to ordering your meal!) and meat are both good - and the service
is very good and welcoming. Mainly Spanish speaking staff and
menu in several languages. A little more expensive than other
restaurants mentioned here and more a European clientelle.
Avda. de Motril - 958 82 87 39
Salobrena - Bar Pesetas ****
Restaurant and bar with great views over the town and sea
from the terrace. Traditional Spanish food - no English spoken.
If you locate the square where the Museum is you will see a balcony
terrace overlooking the town towards the sea. From this point
you can see Bar Pesetas to your right - you will then be able
to locate the restaurant on foot!
Calle Bóveda - Tel: 958 61 01 82
Salobrena - Bar Ahaja ****
Located down a pretty stepped flower-filled alleyway off the
Museum square. Traditional Moorish bar. Only sells tapas. In the
chillier months of the year you can sit outside underneath the
gas heaters. No views - a great late night bar!
Salobrena - Betty Blue ****
A pizza restaurant with great views across the mountains from
the terrace. Cheap with an excellent House Rioja wine. It does
get busy between 7 - 9 pm and you can book. English spoken. To
locate this restaurant find the Arab Castle - you will be on a
road which is one way. Follow the road past the castle down a
hill and you will see the red sign for the restaurant on your
right. In front of the Paseo de las Flores.
Calle Antequera 4 - Tel: 958 61 26 72
Salobrena - Argentinian Steak House ***
Cook your own steak on a hot slab of stone! Good fun but a little
expensive. English spoken. Follow the road through town to the
beach. At the junction to the beach you will see the restaurant
on your left with a blue awning outside. At holidays and weekends
it gets quite busy so get there early.
Salobrena
Salobreña itself is a very interesting town and you can go up
into the old town which is very steep - and hairy driving - but
worth it for the views from the top. There is also the Moorish
castle to visit and during the season there are often Fiestas
at the weekends. You will see posters advertising them.
Places of interest
The Castle of Salobreña
Situated on top of a solid rocky promontory between the Mediterranean
sea and the valley of the river Guadalfeo. Dating back more than
1,000 years it began life as a fortress in the 10th century, later
was a prison and citadel. It was adapted to suit defence needs
during the Christian period. Lovely views. Spectacularly lit at
night. Access can be gained from 10 am - 2 pm and in the evenings
from 5 pm - 10 pm. Ticket has dual entry into the Museum also.
Paseo de las Flores
The Paseo de las Flores is located on the northern and western
slopes of the Castle spread around a modern horse shoe shaped
arch. Since ancient times this area has been a place of recreation
and enjoyment for the inhabitants. Lovely views.
Virgen del Rosario
A sculpture of the patron saint of Salobreña, the Virgen
del Rosario (the Virgin of the Rosary) dating from the 16th
century can be seen in the chancel of the parish church. It stands
in the centre of the 19th century neo-baroque altarpiece between
San Antonio and San Jose with child.
Ingenio Azucarero en La Caleta
The only refinery in Europe still dedicated to the processing
of sugar cane into raw sugar. It also produces the best known
cane rum in the area. The Guadalfeo sugar refinery is situated
in the Caleta districk of the town.
Useful telephone numbers (alll numbers are local - please
add international dialling code)
Tourism Office: 958 61 03 14
Local Police: 958 61 10 59
Guardia Civil: 958 61 04 23
Emergency Services: 061
Bus Station (Alsina Graells): 958 61 25 21
Golf Club "Los Moriscos": 958 82 55 27
Dental Clinic: 958 610 674
Shopping
Shops
in the region generally close between 2.00 pm and 5.00 pm for
siesta.
Taxis
Salobreña
958 61 09 26
Motril
958 60 18 54
Tourist
Offices
Motril
Tourism Promotion Board, situated at the entrance to the park
in the centre of town and near the church on the hill
Telephone: (00 34) 938 83 83 78 - English spoken
Salobreña
Tourism Office: 958 61 03 14
The tourist office in Salobreña is at the entrance
to the town next to the La BodThe office is open from 9 am - 1.30
pm and from 4.30 pm - 7 pm. During the summer there is also a
blue booth open which is located on the beach that gives tourist
information. Both are quite good and give details of the town´s
festivals and all events in the Granada region (including Granada
and Las Alpujarras).
Trains
There
is no train service along this section of the coast! The nearest
train stations to the Costa Tropical region are either Malaga,
Granada or Almeria. Once at these points it is possible to take
an Alsina Graells bus to any of the towns along the coast and
up to Granada.
Weather
The
combination of the warmth of the Mediterranean and the protection
of the Sierra Nevada mountains produces a climate on the Costa Tropical
de Granada which is unique in Spain. A warm and sunny climate throughout
the year and charming unspoiled villages offer a more traditional
view of Spain where life is natural and unhurried yet colourful
and full of interest. 10
day weather forecast
